"Saigon" Cafe
At the intersection of Nevsky and Vladimirsky Avenues, in the heart of the city, there was at one time the truly legendary cafe "Saigon". The name is unofficial and informal but well-known among the citizens of Saint-Petersburg.
In reality, cafe "Saigon" was just a cafe at the hotel "Moscow", which is why it was even previously called "Moscow Region" among its regular audience. The cafe got its legendary name thanks to a policeman`s comment. It was targeted at smoking girls, as it was told by the literature critic Viktor Toporov: "There it was allowed, then forbidden to smoke inside… During the period when smoking was prohibited, two girls took out cigarettes, a policeman went to them and said: "What are you doing here? A disgrace! What a "Saigon" here" [4]. Such an analogy appeared due to the fact that the Vietnam War was just unfolding at the same time. The initial stage of a series of military conflicts, where, among other things, the interests of the United States and the USSR clashed, was the civil war in South Vietnam. So, the cafe with permanent noise and disorder was named in the honor of its capital.
According to the description of people who were not regulars to this place, this cafe was quite a marginal place; even in the daytime, anyone could be robbed. A stranger saw in this place a dirty diner, which was so crowded that it was necessary to stand. According to foreigners who sometimes visited this place, "Bohemians" simultaneously mixed with criminals. They saw in this cafe a source of new intellectual life. Ponomarev, in his article "Informals on Nevsky", gives the following schedule of the Saigon restaurant: "In the morning — casual visitors or someone with a strong hangover-just drink coffee. From twelve to one in the afternoon, the book speculators from the Foundry had breakfast. The usual crowd drank coffee until four o'clock. The most "madhouse" started after five, when the regulars appeared" [5] - "Saigon" was rarely empty.
Many famous people, like Smoktunovsky, Tsoi, Dovlatov, and Grebenshchikov visited “Saigon”. Associated with their conversations and memories, the cafe is imprinted with the work of musicians. In 2001, an online resource was created. It speaks about the need for a detailed study of the culture created by this cafe – "Saigon culture". The author of the site says that "Saigon" not only created a language culture of the intelligentsia of the 1960s and 1980s but also formed a special culture of their behavior. It is hard to imagine a more suitable place where representatives of different segments of the population could gather: "And this very cafeteria gathered the entire St. Petersburg underground, all nonconformists, dissidents, drug addicts, parasites, poets, artists, teachers, military personnel, artists, alcoholics and athletes" [6]. In addition, "Saigon" was one of the first and largest cafeterias in Leningrad. It contributed to the spread of a coffee consumption culture, which was very unusual for Soviet people. A general interest in this drink swept Russia only with the 2000s coming.
The role of the Cold War in this particular location was related to the influence of Western culture. It ideologically transformed the youth’s interest in foreign music, Western literature and was different from that adopted in the Soviet Union way of life. It had a material manifestation in the form of some products, as well as associated practices. For example, drinking coffee was one of the components of a “Bohemian” lifestyle. All of this formed a special way of thinking, contrasting the regulars of such places with the people who avoided this cafe.